Local oyster, cucumber, radish, sherry & ossetra caviar
With flavours that range from bland to salty, oysters are the prize of epicures. These plump, mineral-rich molluscs may or may not cause people to fall in love with each other, but there are a good many folk who have fallen in love with them, beginning with the Roman emperors who used to pay for them by their weight in gold.
Oysters have always been linked with love. The dashing lover Casanova used to start each meal by eating 12 dozen oysters and when
Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, sprang forth from the sea on an oyster shell and gave birth to Eros, the word "aphrodisiac" was born.
Not all oysters taste the same. In fact, of the many species, only a few have any commercial value. The size, shape and flavour of oysters are all severely affected by their habitat, food and water temperature. Not only are oysters delicious, but they are also nutritionally well balanced, containing protein, carbohydrates, lipids as well as an excellent source of vitamins. Four or five medium sized oysters supply the recommended daily allowance of iron, copper, iodine, magnesium, calcium, zinc, manganese and phosphorus.
Although enjoyed raw or barely cooked, oysters can be prepared in many ways; steamed, baked, grilled, poached, marinated, fried or baked
- you name it. Oysters are sold either live in their shell, shucked or in jars or cans.
For this recipe we will be using fresh oysters. I love oysters and always enjoy cooking with them. It is not always necessary to serve
expensive white wine with oysters. For me, a tall glass of Spanish dry sherry is the perfect accompaniment.
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INGREDIENTS:
24 oysters, opened, juice reserved
5cm cumber, peeled, deseeded, brunoise
2 red radishes finely julienne
½ tsp caviar
1 cup wild rocket, picked and washed
2 nori sheets, cut in half from corner to corner
4 sprigs chervil
100ml / 3½fl oz grape seed oil
2 lemons
50ml / 2fl oz rice wine vinegar
15ml / ½fl oz mirin
1 tsp chives
½ cup rock salt
1 tbsp pink peppercorns
Serves 4
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LEMON & SHERRY OIL
Cut the lemons in half and soak in grape seed oil and infuse overnight. Squeeze out the lemons in the oil and add the oyster juice, vinegar and mirin. Season.
ROCK SALT MIX
Mix together the rock salt, pink peppercorns and chopped chives.
Place the rock salt mix in the centre of the plate and arrange wild rocket leaves around the salt. Open and clean oysters, loosen meat.
Place them onto the rock salt and spoon a little cucumber, radish and caviar into each oyster. Garnish with chervil. Fold the nori into a cone and place in the centre of the plate. Spoon some cucumber and radish condiments into it. Again, garnish with chervil.
Drizzle each oyster with the lemon oil making sure not to sprinkle any on the caviar. |
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An Ideal Match
Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs 1999
When it comes to luxury ingredients like oysters and caviar, a bubbly is the way to go.
It matches the indulgence of the dish in personality and in flavour, the richness of the oyster counter-pointed by the freshness of the wine. This Blanc de Blanc also has lovely toasty notes, which will add a breadth to the dish, while its acidity will match
the lemon and sherry oil.
An Interesting Match
Jack & Knox Frostline Riesling 2004
A bright and flavourful wine, this Riesling trades on freshness and a clean, pure flavour that ends dry. The complexity of the wine will add complementary flavours to the plate, while the firm structure of the Riesling will also mean that it refreshes the palate.
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Shuck an Oyster
When buying oysters, it is imperative that you keep them alive until you are ready to cook or
serve them. Live oysters can be stored in the refrigerator, covered with a wet kitchen or
paper towel. The key is to keep them truly cold - 32°F to 35°F if possible. Within that range,
oysters should keep (in a live state) for four to seven days. Never place them in an airtight
container or submerge them in fresh water or they will die. Be sure to remove any oysters
that die (look for open shells) so that they do not contaminate the remaining ones.
Before shucking oysters you must first discard any animals with broken or gaping shells as
they have died and are not edible. To prepare oysters, scrub the shells (with a stiff brush, if
necessary) and rinse under cold running water. Scrape any tough encrustations from the
shells with a sturdy knife.
Shucking oysters is easier if you have the right tools: An oyster knife has a very short,
strong blade and a guard to protect your fingers. It is not uncommon for the knife to slip
while you are applying pressure to open a shell, so wear a pair of heavy work gloves to
protect your hands. To shuck an oyster, place it on top of a folded cloth or hold it in a gloved
hand with the deeper shell downward. Hold it firmly as you insert the oyster knife between
the two halves of the shell and twist the knife to pry the halves apart. Work the blade
around to the hinge. Working over a bowl to avoid mess and catch the juices, cut the
muscle that holds the shell together, then remove the top half. Slip the knife under the
oyster to free it. Remember to strain the oyster liquid before using it, to remove any
broken bits of shell.
Shucked oysters should be kept in tightly covered containers, immersed in their liquor.
Kept like this they can keep for up to a week. If you want to keep them for longer they
can be frozen in their liquor in airtight containers. If the freezer is set at 0°F or colder
they should keep for two months. Be sure to thaw frozen oysters in the refrigerator and
not at room temperature.
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